Eri Silk comes from the worm Samia cynthia ricini, found in North East of India and some parts of China and Japan. The name Eri is derived from the Assamese word ‘era’, which means castor as the silkworm feeds on castor plants. One of the common names, the 'Ailanthus Silk moth', refers to the host plant. Eri silk is also known as endi or errandi in India. The wooly white silk is often referred to as the Ahimsa silk or the fabric of peace as the process does not involve the killing of the silk worm. Moths leave the cocoon as soon as it is ready to be spun. The eri silk worm is the only completely domesticated silkworm other than Bombyx mori.
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Eri caterpillars eat a number of plants, including castor bean, manioc (tapioca) and kesseru. Because these are food crops, Eri silk raising is often used alongside of the food production, as a valuable side product. It is grown in Assam, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh, Bihar, Jharkhand, Chattisgarh, Orissa, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and some small villages in India. The heavy rainfall and humid atmosphere of the region suits the Eri culture. The spun yarns are often more "cottony" than most Bombyx silks, although some Eri yarns can be very soft and shiny. Eri is also known for its delicious and nutritious pupa in the north-eastern part of the country enjoys unique characteristics like thermal properties, extra softness and aristocratic finish. Eri silk is reared indoor and is extracted from the wild (Vanya) silkworms. Eri is known as most eco-friendly amongst silk. It is reared throughout the year. It requires less land and produces a white, creamy white or reddish silk.
The larvae, after hatching feed on castor leaves and are allowed to grow with periodical feeding. The worms are raised in a controlled environment and are fed on castor leaves. The worms form a cocoon around themselves by secreting a protein from the top of their head.
After the completion of 30-32 days, the silk worm crawls in search of a comfortable place among the leaves to spin the cocoons. The Eri cocoons are open-ended and the moth is allowed to emerge out of it before gathering the silk staple. Eri staple is not fine and is shorter in size. Due to this it cannot be reeled, hence it is spun i.e. like in other processes silk is not unwound from the cocoon but instead the fiber is spun into thread.
Eri silk is a staple fiber unlike other silks which are continuous filament. The texture of the fabric is like coarse, fine and dense. It is very strong, durable and has elasticity. Eri silk is darker and heavier than other silks and blends well with wools and cotton. Due to its thermal property it is warm in winters and cool in summer.
Eri silk fabric is a boon for those who practice absolute non-violence and do not use any product obtained by killing any living creature. Eri silk is also said to be poor person’s silk as it is not so enormously priced as other silk types. It is widely used by everyone in the regions it is produced. Now it is getting popular the world over. Vegans and other monks in India prefer this silk due to non-violence.
In India, Eri is mostly used for the preparation of bed sheets. The thermal property of Eri silk makes it a suitable fabric for shawls, jackets and blankets. Dress materials and baby dresses are also made from Eri silk fabric because of its soft texture and moisture absorbent quality.
Eri silk is durable and strong and has a typical texture; hence it is widely used in home furnishing like curtains, bed covers, cushion covers, wall hangings, quilt, etc. The wooly feel adds to the comfort.
Two Eri spun silk mills have been established Hindupur in Andhra Pradesh and Kokrajhar in Assam while another is planned to be built in Guhawati.
The silk products are being promoted as eco-friendly and natural, and should also provide more jobs and money for the tribal peoples that primarily practice Eri culture.
Eri silk production in India during 2007/8 was 1,530 tones. This made up 73% of the total Vanya silk Wild silk production of 2,075 tones.